The Wonder Of It All

Travel can be about anything. It can be an hour away or a thousands miles away. Always carve out some time for yourself for a little exploration. You'll never know what you might discover unless you take the time. Include what you love. Then just stand there breathing it all in and, perhaps, capture it.  Photographs allow us to breath it in again and again and again.

The Road Less Traveled

I have to admit north central Florida (the Gainesville area) was never my first choice of places to visit or even my 41st. I'm more of a perimeter girl or, should I say, beach girl. If you've read my blog before you've seen the pattern. In my defense we do have 1100(+) miles of spectacular coastline and I am the offspring of a lifeguard and a nurse that met on the beach, BUT perhaps I haven't given the charming interior parts of Florida enough coverage.

When it comes to the Gainesville area I had long since catalogued it as the gateway to party U. The huge school and its love of all things football (Go Gators!) overshadowed anything else it had to offer like theme parks do in Orlando. If you have Gator friends you probably understand why and if you've never been to the University of Florida well, let's just say, the blue and orange are a bit overwhelming.  For decades it's been known as the party college. A friend put it this way, "That's why it took me six years to get a four year degree" and once my own sorority and beer bong days were over the area lost its appeal. Fast forward to now and I confess the school grew up (the school is now ranked among top public universities in the country), but an education, football and drinking aren't the only things this area has to offer.  So my post is not really about the school. I just needed to confess I'd been giving it a bad wrap. The surrounding areas offer a different appeal to my more grown up self; communities with names like Alachua, Micanopy, McIntosh and Cross Creek.

Most of you are familiar with the work of a writer named Rowling, only the one I'm thinking of is Rawlings and lived in Cross Creek, FL.  She didn't make magic with a wand but Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings did make magic with words.  In fact her words won a Pulitzer.  Friends with Ernest Hemingway, Thomas Wolfe, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Robert Frost and Margaret Mitchell you might not think that Rawlings would be the type to love life in the backwoods of Florida, but she did.
She wrote, "We at the Creek need and have found only very simple things. We need above all, I think, a certain remoteness from urban confusion, and while this can be found in other places, Cross Creek offers it with such beauty and grace that once entangled with it, no other place seems possible to us, just as when truly in love none other offers the comfort of the beloved."  
Much of her work was taken from her experiences here and thanks to the local's sense of preservation, time and progress have not been allowed to erode this areas history. Visiting the area is like stepping back into Florida's past.  Of course there are big city conveniences nearby due to the huge University, the charm however, lies in its back country. Rawlings' stories are a "must read" and her home is designated as a National Historic Landmark.

Close by is Micanopy which offers about a 1/2 mile stretch of shops and a restaurant or two housed in old buildings sporting everything from vintage postcards and carriages to Fiestaware and Depression glass.  For me its crown jewel is the Herlong Mansion B and B.  This place is authentic and beautiful and will be the focus of an upcoming post.

A stones throw from Micanopy is the town of McIntosh. A spattering of old wooden churches, homes with wrap around porches, some fishing cottages and an abundance of huge oaks draped with Spanish Moss make up the old neighborhood nestled lakeside. Orange Lake boasts 12,706 acres of water purported to be filled with Largemouth Bass, Bluegill, Black Crappie and Redear and it truly dwarfs the little towns that dot its edges. Whether you're inclined to stay at a fishing cottage or the Herlong in Micanopy or at one of Gainseville's numerous hotels it's an area well worth exploring. Fall festivals are a great way to discover old Florida and I highly recommend taking an unguided tour. Just get lost! You might just find yourself stopped in the middle of a country road taking photos of an oak canopy.
"Cross Creek belongs to the wind and the rain, to the sun and the seasons, to the cosmic secrecy of seed, and beyond all, to time." MKR

Bob Brounley - Fingerstlye Guitarist

I must acknowledge my reconnection to the area is through dear friends, Lindy and Bob. If you're lucky you might find Bob playing his amazing music on a weekend in Micanopy (Bob's on ReverbNation.com). 
They live on a horse farm just outside of McIntosh and have given me more insight to the area than I could have discovered on my own. They are among the most wonderful people a person could hope to know. They even introduced me to the Mayor of McIntosh.  Horse Farms and dinners with the Mayor?  Sounds like I've been hobnobbing! Well, a girls got to do what a girls got to do.

Search Amazon.com for marjorie rawlings books
Historic Micanopy, Florida, 1821

Florida's European Roots

Old architecture, old Spaniards, old battles, blah, blah, blah -- who cares, take me to Disney!  Most visitors to Florida b-line it straight to the mouse trap and who could blame them! The glare from central Florida is so blinding you can hardly see the rest of the state. After all, Florida is just a state, Disney is a WORLD!

Don't get me wrong, I like going to Disney. I like theme parks in general, Disney, Universal, Bush Gardens, etc., and I've probably been to Disney over 50 times (I'm in therapy for this addiction).  I just love seeing the delight on children's faces and I really love rides, especially roller coasters, BUT there is so much more to Florida.

Now, I confess, I'm not very good at history.  I've forgotten most of what I learned.  Fortunately though, my husband is a walking encyclopedia. I'll admit that I sometimes resent the smarty pants, but I'm mostly in awe of him.  Although, I sometimes glaze over when he's talking about another battle scene (like I did in Mr. Stoviaks 10th grade class), I mostly find it very interesting and better still our 11 year old daughter can't get enough.  Oh, make no mistake, mom is awesome for a Rockin' Roller Coaster ride, but dad is pretty awesome without going upside down!  My point is, with all the talking, flashing, whirling "techno" stuff that's coming at our children these days it is still possible to slow them down and let them experience the real and the genuine.

St. Augustine is a charming walking city complete with trolley tours, carriage rides, ghostly tours (including a pub hearse ride) and nearby beautiful beaches.  Oh, it's a tourist town for sure, but it is also the real deal. If the ghosts were visible you might encounter Ponce de Leon (explorer and treasure seeker) or Henry Flagler (industrialist, oil magnate and railroad pioneer), and yes, you can drink from The Fountain of Youth.  How many towns can boast that kind of pedigree?   

St. Augustine was founded forty-two years before the English colony at Jamestown, Virginia, and fifty-five years before the Pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock in Massachusetts - making it the oldest permanent European settlement on the North American continent.  That's impressive!
(left: Aviles Street - in Spanish times this was "The Street of the Royal Hospital" renamed in 1923 in honor of the founder of St. Augustine - Menendez's birthplace. Below right: Government House Museum - the east wing dates from 1710, Fort Marion and Crucial Coffee one of my frequent stops. They serve coffee and ice-cream.)

Let me see if I can get this right, Spain (Ponce de Leon) discovered it (1513), claimed it and named it La Florida, though, the French succeeded in establishing the first colony (1564). (Also noteworthy is that Ponce de Leon also discovered a strong northerly current that would allow ships to return home quickly; now known as the Gulf Stream). Spain (Adm. Menendez) retook La Florida shortly after the Feast day of St. Augustine (1565), thus the name, and with the help of a hurricane also defeated the French fleet. England (Sir Francis Drake) attacked and burned it (1586) and pirates (Capt. John Davis) plundered it (1668).  Spain (1672-1695) finally built a stone fort (Castillo De San Marcos, now Fort Marion) and to this day it has never been taken.  In 1763 Spain ceded Florida to England (Treaty of Paris) to regain the capital of Cuba. The British ruled for 20 years then returned Florida to Spain (1783) 2 years after and resulting from Spain taking West Florida and Lord Cornwallis surrendering to George Washington in Virginia.  37 years later Spain sold Florida to the US (1821) and Spain relinquised control of East Florida in the Government House (Museum) in St. Augustine.  St. Augustine survived a yellow fever epidemic (1821), The Seminole Indian War (1836) and The Civil War (1861-1865).  In 1845 Florida became the 27th state.  When the Civil War ended in 1865 the town was 3 centuries old.  Wow, this place makes the Pirates of the Carribean look like a kiddy ride (pun intended)!  It's a good thing these ghosts aren't really present I don't think they'd get along.
In 1845 Henry Flagler rolled in and became the golden boy of St. Augustine. With his vast fortune he built his dream town.  He was responsible for the building and development of the town's hospital, city hall, several churches, the train depot and the Florida East Coast Railway.  He also built two lavish hotels, the beautiful Alcazar (now the Lightner Museum) and his masterpiece the Ponce de Leon (now Flagler College). In 1887 and 1914, fires wiped out many historic buildings, however, beginning in 1959, and continuing today, the state has an ongoing preservation effort, meticulously restoring many colonial structures to their original appearance.
Wow! That was a little like going through the Louvre with the Griswolds!

St. Augustine withstood exploration and settlement, plunder, plagues, fires and hurricanes. It has been affected by, fought over and traded through almost every conceivable war among nations having anything to do with North America since it was discovered.  It is a city of commerce and trade, poverty and wealth, perseverance and new beginnings and its players belong to a virtual list of who's who among historic characters.  Yes, St. Augustine is a city with a rich history but the Kings of Spain, France and England, nor pirates, ever took its treasure because these treasures can't be taken.  From its first know human inhabitants the Timucua Indians through its European settlements to its sun drenched shorelines this is a place filled with riches to discover.  So, visit all of Florida, even the mouse trap, but bring your little conquistadors to St. Augustine because it's a real treasure!

The Casa Monica Hotel (pictured left and below) is a great place to stay.  Built in 1888 it is one of the oldest hotels in the US and is located in the heart of St. Augustine occupying one of four noteworthy corners the other three are occupied by the Government House Museum, Flagler College and the Lightner Museum.   Its Moorish Revival architecture is absolutely beautiful.

Cap's on the Water

Besides the magnificent coastline I can't think of a better reason to go to northeast Florida than Cap's on the Water.  It sits between Ponte Vedra and St. Augustine on A1A and is short ride from either.   Several years ago when my husband, daughter and I were exploring the region I fell in love with this restaurant (and raw bar). The beautiful intracoastal waterway view from this old fish camp is enough to stir you but the wood deck punctured by dozens of oak trees, the hanging lanterns and the gentle waves lapping the shore make for a magical setting.  
As soon as I started the blog I knew I'd have to post about Cap's one day.  My favorite kind of restaurants are the ones that evoke a sense of romance without pretense or formality. The kind of places where you want to linger - where the wine and the laughter flow in the company of good friends.  Cap's is just such a place.  When you're there you feel peaceful, relaxed, comfortable.  The food is just a huge bonus. 

These nice folks, from England, come every year and raved about the food.

Fresh Florida Gumbo
w/Cheddar Drop Biscuit

Baked Goat Cheese
and Eggplant Stack

Shrimp Vilano

La Florida

A true trip through historic Florida would not be complete without its earliest beginning and if I had only one opportunity to show you the beauty of Florida it might just be this place.  Of the hundreds of beautiful places in Florida this place is the cherry and it is rich in history.  But it might not be where you think.  I'm not in St. Augustine, not yet, but I'm close.
Guana River State Park is located along A1A just north of St. Augustine.  Few places exemplify Florida's beauty the way this place does. It is historical preservation the way nature intended it and it is as close to pristine as I've seen. For those of you who are history buffs a 1592 account by a Spanish historian has led present day historians to believe that Guana River was the site of Ponce de Leon's first landing in Florida but the precise location is still unknown.
According to the state of Florida within its (the GTMNER) 73,352 acres are beaches, sand dunes, salt marshes, mangroves, tidal wetlands, tidal creeks, oyster bars, estuarine lagoons, maritime hardwood hammock, freshwater depression marshes, pond pine flatwoods and shell mound forests. It is also an important calving ground for the endangered North Atlantic Right Whale. The Guana River State Park which is part of the GTMNER (Guana Tolomato Matanzas National Estuarine Research Reserve) is where I landed, me and Ponce de Leon. For me, what's most interesting about this place is its awe inspiring beauty. I think Ponce de Leon was inspired by its beauty as well since he named it La Florida or place of flowers.  It can provoke quiet reflection through a nature hike or kayak trip but it can also inspire the minds of a whole hoard of fourth graders at its research facility or one single eleven year old transforming the idea of snow angels into sea angels on its beach. You'll know when you see it that this is how it was meant to be.  You may even feel as though you've just discovered La Florida!

Looking toward the park from the beach dunes.

Above the dunes.

Road Trip Recap

My little tour through Florida ended on a cold morning, a 24 degree morning when the grass crunched under my feet. The morning this horseshoe crab seemed more like the stuff of the frozen seafood isle than my parent's Gulf side backyard. Mmmm, horseshoe crab over whole wheat linguini - very Lean Cuisine. I think I'll pass.

Despite the drop in temperature the trip was very rewarding. I saw and did so many interesting things but alas there's only so much blog speak you'll listen to in one post before you stop scrolling.  I thought however, I might just give you a little bit more to sum it all up.
As you probably noticed I have avoided the neon tourist icons of Florida again. There's so much written about the tourist hot spots throughout the state. Although I can give you good information on them as well, right now I preferred to give you something different. We will eventually get to Disney, South Beach, etc. but I think it is important to point out parts of Florida that are still old Florida. Areas that have a grasp on their history and by virtue of embracing it they have managed not to dry up and blow away. Some would say they aren't very interesting but for those who pursue a different kind of adventure small towns have a lot to offer. In particular something the bustling tourists meccas usually lack – they have authenticity. It is in these places that you'll find the true Florida. I haven't made it to all of them yet, but I hope I can give you enough of a glimpse to intrigue you.
In the Florida Panhandle there is an area known as the Forgotten Coast. It is were my parents moved to escape the crowds of SE Florida. There you'll find a string of tiny fishing towns each with a couple shops, a restaurant and if you're lucky a hotel. Some have been around since the 1800's and are among the places you should not miss. These are places where you can pull up to an oyster house and buy a bushel of the freshest oysters you'll ever eat or a few pounds of the freshest shrimp. There is nothing like getting together with friends and throwing some oysters right on the grill. When they're done you can eat them straight out of the shell. If you've never had a fresh steamed oyster you are definitely missing out! I actually prefer them steamed. But there are a multitude of ways to fix oysters from raw to Rockefeller to stew. Check out the Oysters Rockefeller segment on TravelVision on YouTube.  My mother's recipe for Oyster Stew has been a family favorite for decades and it's one of the simplest meals I've ever made.  If you prefer not to have to shuck or fix them there are a dozen or restaurants happy to accommodate you along the coast. One of the best is Boss Oyster on the river in Apalachicola. There you can have your oysters fixed many different ways.  The Oyster St. Jacob and the Oyster Monterey are two of my favorites. 

Apalachicola is a great little town to start exploring and is home to The Owl Restaurant (see previous post), The Gibson Inn (pictured above - established in 1907 and on the Nat'l Registry of Historic Places) and The Oasis Bar (pictured at top). It sits at the mouth of the Apalachicola River and was once a bustling seaport. It is now a simple fishing town and a wonderful place to visit. There's lots to see in the area including the beautiful beaches on nearby St. George Island. And should you choose to head east from there don't miss out on Carrabelle, Panacea and St. Marks.  St. Marks is home to the St. Marks Nat'l Wildlife Refuge where you can spend the day bird watching, boating and fishing. Boating in these parts abounds and not getting out on the Gulf or up one of the rivers would be a crime. 

  St. Marks is also where you'll find the Riverside Cafe a rustic fun place on the water with good food and good music. It's where the locals hang.  So in your plans to travel to Florida don't forget all there is to see and do on this part of Florida's vast coastline.
  

Road Trip - Day 5, Ichetucknee Springs State Park

Returning to the Scene of the Crime

In 1972 the Head Spring of the Ichetucknee River was declared a
National Natural Landmark (NNL) by the U.S. Dept. of Interior.  From there the Itchetucknee River meanders some six miles before connecting with the Santa Fe River and supports a spectacularly diverse ecosystem both on land and in the water. There are hardwood forests and many species of rare birds, mammals and reptiles. Its shores are lined with old growth cypress and its waters are the cleanest in all of Florida but you don't need a chemistry set to know that – all you need do is look. The Ichetucknee Springs State Park is home to two beautiful natural springs, the Head Spring and the Blue Hole Spring. The deep aquifer source of both is more noticeable at the Blue Spring marked by an indigo blue spot at the cave's opening (pictured on the sign) but its depth is indiscernible.  To see the source must be a thing of wonder and can be experienced if you are a certified cave diver.  I actually dove in a cave in the Crystal River as part of my diving certification.  It's an experience I'll never forget and nothing I expected.  It was very cool! I'd love to dive the Blue Hole Spring.  I don't know if my certification would hold up (it was many, many years ago) but I think I might just have to take the plunge one day.

Today, however, is all about hiking trails, admiring the beauty of the springs and a little trip down memory lane for this is also the place where several years ago, in the dead of winter, my husband talked me into skinny dipping. More than you care to know, probably, but I was much younger then and looked a whole lot better in the buff. It went something like this, "There's nobody here except for us and one park ranger and she returned to her station. No one will see us." He was right, mostly, it was too cold for much of anything on this peaceful river (luckily the springs keep the water at 72 degrees). So I thought (after more convincing), what the heck! Well, to the guy with the cap and goggles doing laps up the river (unbelievable!) in the dead of winter (you know who you are) my sincerest apologies for the flash of flesh scrambling to grab clothes and hall butt. It was a good laugh! Still not sure if I got my entire wardrobe back (sorry, more TMI)? I just hope the guy didn't try to blight it from his memory. I'd like to think he's still telling the story!

The Ichetucknee will always be a special place for me and clearly not just for its beauty.  If in your travels through Florida you happen to be near the Itchetucknee make sure you don't miss this National treasure. If you don't have time for tubing, kayaking, canoeing or diving may I suggest a stroll or a quick "dip".  You can see for yourself this place is irresistibly inviting.

For information on cave diver certification in Florida check out http: www.cavediveflorida.com (Oct. - March scuba diving is available in the Blue Hole).

(It's safe to scroll down - crime scene photos where intentionally left out.)