Paddling Florida's Natural Areas: Everglades

When many people think of the Florida Everglades, they tend to think of an inhospitable swamp with alligators and snakes ready to pounce. The stigma originates from all those cheesy, over exaggerated movies touting giant gators and snakes, or worse, swamp creatures and creepy backwater people. I can almost hear the "Deliverance" music. To make things worse in 2014 an Outside Magazine adventure writer made it sound overly challenging, "...the Everglades are filled with mazes and monsters to challenge even the most seasoned paddlers. But if you can navigate the tides and the uncompromisingly flat terrain, avoid alligators and insects, and keep your GPS in good working order, you’ll be rewarded with a truly unique wetland adventure. Wow! Before you say, "Mark that off my list," hear me out. It's simply not all Man-vs-Wild "as seen on TV" there. While the post was meant to be forewarning, it was too harsh. Perhaps, it just wasn't his cup of tea.
I admit, the Everglades can be challenging to hike, kayak or canoe in certain areas, it is simply not the case in many other areas. The truth is the Everglades, as well as many other Florida waterways, are safe to explore with the proper preparations and precautions and what you'll experience is "truly unique".

DON'T be an IDIOT!

Don't panic over the "seasoned paddlers" reference or inference to monsters. The writer has a flair for the dramatic. There is something for everyone, from beginners to the seasoned pros, and the "monsters", alligators, don't eat kayaks and canoes or very many tourists (I'm kidding…really). Before you go, understanding each person’s abilities in your party will allow you to find activities that will suit their desires and capabilities, insuring everyone enjoys the adventure. If you're not comfortable planning this type of adventure for your party, there are plenty of guided tours. Know that very few humans have ever been attacked by an alligator. Alligators generally shy away from humans, but can get very defensive and aggressive when they feel threatened. Nearly every attack was a result of humans using bad judgement. Simply put. Don't be an idiot. Yes, alligators can be dangerous if provoked. (Note: breeding season, beginning in April,  is perhaps the most dangerous time.) Enough said.

Photo by Larry Kay

Everglades outings are fantastic! Having the largest subtropical wilderness in the U.S. to explore (1.5 million acres) leaves you with endless adventure possibilities. It's also the only place in the country to spot crocodiles (which should be treated with the same respect as alligators), and it's teaming with other incredible wildlife viewing opportunities.
There are plenty of places to rent equipment or join a guided tour. Most of which can be found online. Winter in the Everglades is the best time to visit. It is crowded, but not like you might think. Migrating birds flood the area. These visitors make for some very spectacular settings. Although spectacularly impressive in numbers, these visitors may be out shined by the local color - birds with funky names like Purple Gallinule, Flamingo, Anhinga, Ibis and Rosette Spoon Bill. There's so much to see - otters, manatee, deer, bear and panthers. Some sightings may require patience and some may require good fortune, but all are found in this amazing backdrop, the Florida Everglades.

Purple Gallinule by Jake Parades

Roseate Spoonbill by Diane R Brannon

River Otter

  

Camping in Florida's Natural Areas

Dusk at Shark Bay Everglades Nat'l Park

Camping in Florida is an awesome experience, provided you plan well.

A couple years ago I had a longing for a night counting stars beside a fire on the beach, so I invited my family to go camping at Cayo Costa State Park. C-a-m-p-i-n-g? In the "off" season?
Resistance would have been prudent but I thought, It'll be ok. After all, there's a sea breeze. Foolish mistake! As a 4th generation Floridian I should have known better, but it had been sooooo long since we'd been camping. Well, I confess it was stupid. No amount of bug spray and fire smoke would dissuade the little !#&%* biting pests (mosquitos and no-see-ums). We left after one very memorable, miserable night.
That's just how it is here in Florida, year in and year out. Remember rule #1 - 50 degrees or less (50 degrees is when the little suckers go into hibernation) and rule #2 - never break rule #1. It will, no doubt, be an eternity before my family stops ribbing me about it. My brothers claim torture. They say, they gave a pint of blood away the hard way. Lesson learned, but it has not stopped me from camping. As long as you plan well and go at the right time of year, it's a whole lot of fun.
Camping is a great way to bring people together. The smell of a wood-burning fire while basking in its warmth under an inky blue endless night sky surrounded by the laughter of friends or family is irreplaceable. Stress drifts away and frivolity abounds. Far from the city lights, the brilliant stars are hypnotic. You'll undoubtedly forget what your doing, then laugh when you burn your skewered double marshmallows. You'll probably proclaim, It's just how you like them. S’more, please!

Camping Options

Honestly, I love camping but, I hate setting up the tent and sleeping on the ground. That's why I often prefer a cabin. However, some campers say, Pitching a tent is the only true camping. It does allow for a more remote, unique locations. For others, RVs are the only way to go. The comforts of home on wheels. Cabins are available for rent in many Florida State Parks. They are even available in our theme parks, such as, Disney World's Frontier Land where they're not nearly as rustic as they are in natural area parks. I'll admit, camping in a tent these days isn't as primitive as it once was. If you can afford the good stuff, tent camping can be wonderfully modern. Some tents practically set themselves up since camping gear went high tech.
Whatever your accommodation preference, choosing the right campground for your adventure is an equally important decision. Whether your goal is chilling out or more active pursuits, it’s important to find the right amenities and activities to suit you and your fellow campers. We once set up camp and the "campers" next to us pulled out a giant TV and plopped it on their picnic table. My thought was, "You've got to be kidding me!" Fortunately for us, they never turned it on or there would have been a park ranger involved! Perhaps, it was my less than subtle chiding. Before you book, contact the park and ask a lot of questions about what you want and what to expect from "neighbor" campers. They may get a lot of local weekenders (in our case college students) that bring everything but the kitchen sink. Know before you go.

Unique Opportunities

Modern adaptation of a Seminole Chickee
available for camping ENP

Chickee Camping: In Everglades Nat'l Park (ENP) "Chickees" have become hugely popular. They are located along rivers and bays where dry land is inaccessible. How cool is that? They are elevated 10' x 12' wooden platforms with roofs where you can pitch a free standing tent. Definitely a hard surface to sleep on. Stakes and nails are prohibited, as well as, campfires, but it's well worth the trade off for the stellar location and the paddle in and out access. Imagine waking up to this view with a good cup of coffee and breakfast made on a camp stove.

Potts Preserve

Equestrian Camping: If you’re more interested in horses than in boats or bikes, there are many places in Florida where you can camp with your horse. Very, very cool! These parks are filled with trails for riding. It almost makes me wish I had a horse, but then I remember mucking out the stalls on one or two occasions with my friend Lindy. I don't even like cleaning out the cat litter box. Still, it does look like a wonderful way to go camping. Hmmmm. I wonder if you rent a horse just for the camping trip?

Rustic Wedding: If you are really into camping, and are planning your big day, Ocala National Forest in central Northern Florida has a venue for a camping wedding. If a banquet room is not your cup of tea. Perhaps, whiskey barrels, farm tables, mismatched chairs, mason jars candles and bare rafters strung with lights are your idea of incredibly romantic. If so, this may be the perfect wedding venue for you. Yours will be the wedding they'll remember.

Whatever your reason for going, Florida has many great ways and places to camp.

Welcome to Florida's Winter Wonderland

It's not news that people love to visit Florida. They come here for the warm weather, the beaches and the theme parks, but did you know that winter is the perfect time to visit Florida's natural areas? Besides getting a break form the heat, it's a reprieve from the bloodsuckers. No, not your boss, the IRS or your lender, although you may consider that to be true as well, I'm talking about mosquitos and no-see-ums. Every Floridian can relate to this metaphor, "If you don't think a small thing can make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito." The good news is at 50 degrees, the tiny evil creatures shut down for the winter.

Fireside chats can go on to nearly dawn

Given the absence of the usual discomforts, suddenly hiking, biking, kayaking, canoeing and camping are a lot more enticing. Gathering around a campfire and counting stars, once again, become romantic notions, rather than insane ones. It is absolutely the best time for visiting Florida's wonderful natural areas. Although, you will want to bring a long sleeve shirt and a hat, because the sun burns as bright as ever. Ask yourself, When was the last time you made S'mores, went hiking, sat around a bonfire, or gazed at a million stars in a clear night sky?
Here are some great places for getting back out. The Florida Everglades and the Florida Keys parks, such as, John Pennekamp State Park, are obvious choices, but there are plenty of wonderful, less than obvious places for your consideration. Here are a few of my recommendations. Cayo Costa State Park, just north of Sanibel and Captiva islands, is accessible by boat or small plane. It is a beautiful, serene island park with camping, cabins and plenty of water activities. Alafia River State Park, near Tampa, is known for mountain biking trails. Sebastian Inlet State Park, south of Melbourne, although a little chilly in winter, is popular for surfing, beach cast fishing and treasure hunting (a 1715 Spanish fleet wrecked just offshore). Myakka River State Park, near Sarasota has 12 miles of river flowing through it and 15 miles of horse trails. Dry Tortugas camping is a bit more challenging due to its location, but more than worth the trip. Almost 70 miles (113 km) west of Key West, it is accessible via Key West Ferry or your own boat. A 10-site, primitive campground is located on Garden Key, the same island as Fort Jefferson, and is a short walk from the public dock. Nothing beats the view from here and you can explore the 19th Century Fort and snorkel crystal clear waters. An unforgettable experience. All of these parks have camping areas. My last recommendation is not a park but a journey; a Peace River canoe camping trip. It's an experience your family will always remember. There are exceptional guides and group outings available, so all you need worry about is having fun.

January - North Captiva Island / Cayo Costa State Park

Bigger Isn't Better

It's not only the grand or the grandiose that are worth the trip. The shy, subtle, even dwarf can be equally worthwhile. So here's a great piece of travel advice from this Floridian, Now is the perfect time of year to shed your snow shoes and put your mud flats on, to bend down not look up, to entertain your children with baby alligator noises made by your tongue in the roof of your mouth -  Its time to visit Florida's wilderness areas.

At the top, the Everglades, should be on everyone's "bucket list" simply because, there is no other earthly equivalent. Subtly beautiful, this extraordinary place is not best seen from a distance, its designed to be an up close encounter. Made up of rivers, lakes, ponds, marshes, prairies and forests, it stretches from far west to the SE coast, encompassing 1.5 million acres. It is the largest remaining subtropical wilderness in the US. Everglades National Park was the first park "in American history to be permanently protected not for its scenic value, but for the benefit of the unique diversity of life it sustained." Bordered to the west by Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park, the Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge and Big Cypress National Preserve and to the south by the 10,000 Islands National Wildlife Refuge and the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary it is a vast miraculous ecosystem abundant with a fascinating assemblage of life.
This time of year is perfect for camping, hiking, snorkeling, kayaking and canoeing, even horseback riding - you won't sweat to death and the bugs are sleeping. Shhh!
So come on - get down in it!
For Everglades exploration here are a few I found interesting: Everglades tours for a list of airboat tours, Backcountry Cowboy Outfitters, Dragonfly Expeditions, or Florida Backcountry Adventures Marco Island - for hiking, kayaking and canoeing guided tours and rentals, Chokoloskee Island Park and Marina rental efficiencies, marina and RV sites.


These are just a handful of Florida's amazing wilderness areas.
Go online to Florida Division of Recreation and Parks to discover more or Florida (U.S. National Park Service)

The Road Less Traveled

I have to admit north central Florida (the Gainesville area) was never my first choice of places to visit or even my 41st. I'm more of a perimeter girl or, should I say, beach girl. If you've read my blog before you've seen the pattern. In my defense we do have 1100(+) miles of spectacular coastline and I am the offspring of a lifeguard and a nurse that met on the beach, BUT perhaps I haven't given the charming interior parts of Florida enough coverage.

When it comes to the Gainesville area I had long since catalogued it as the gateway to party U. The huge school and its love of all things football (Go Gators!) overshadowed anything else it had to offer like theme parks do in Orlando. If you have Gator friends you probably understand why and if you've never been to the University of Florida well, let's just say, the blue and orange are a bit overwhelming.  For decades it's been known as the party college. A friend put it this way, "That's why it took me six years to get a four year degree" and once my own sorority and beer bong days were over the area lost its appeal. Fast forward to now and I confess the school grew up (the school is now ranked among top public universities in the country), but an education, football and drinking aren't the only things this area has to offer.  So my post is not really about the school. I just needed to confess I'd been giving it a bad wrap. The surrounding areas offer a different appeal to my more grown up self; communities with names like Alachua, Micanopy, McIntosh and Cross Creek.

Most of you are familiar with the work of a writer named Rowling, only the one I'm thinking of is Rawlings and lived in Cross Creek, FL.  She didn't make magic with a wand but Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings did make magic with words.  In fact her words won a Pulitzer.  Friends with Ernest Hemingway, Thomas Wolfe, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Robert Frost and Margaret Mitchell you might not think that Rawlings would be the type to love life in the backwoods of Florida, but she did.
She wrote, "We at the Creek need and have found only very simple things. We need above all, I think, a certain remoteness from urban confusion, and while this can be found in other places, Cross Creek offers it with such beauty and grace that once entangled with it, no other place seems possible to us, just as when truly in love none other offers the comfort of the beloved."  
Much of her work was taken from her experiences here and thanks to the local's sense of preservation, time and progress have not been allowed to erode this areas history. Visiting the area is like stepping back into Florida's past.  Of course there are big city conveniences nearby due to the huge University, the charm however, lies in its back country. Rawlings' stories are a "must read" and her home is designated as a National Historic Landmark.

Close by is Micanopy which offers about a 1/2 mile stretch of shops and a restaurant or two housed in old buildings sporting everything from vintage postcards and carriages to Fiestaware and Depression glass.  For me its crown jewel is the Herlong Mansion B and B.  This place is authentic and beautiful and will be the focus of an upcoming post.

A stones throw from Micanopy is the town of McIntosh. A spattering of old wooden churches, homes with wrap around porches, some fishing cottages and an abundance of huge oaks draped with Spanish Moss make up the old neighborhood nestled lakeside. Orange Lake boasts 12,706 acres of water purported to be filled with Largemouth Bass, Bluegill, Black Crappie and Redear and it truly dwarfs the little towns that dot its edges. Whether you're inclined to stay at a fishing cottage or the Herlong in Micanopy or at one of Gainseville's numerous hotels it's an area well worth exploring. Fall festivals are a great way to discover old Florida and I highly recommend taking an unguided tour. Just get lost! You might just find yourself stopped in the middle of a country road taking photos of an oak canopy.
"Cross Creek belongs to the wind and the rain, to the sun and the seasons, to the cosmic secrecy of seed, and beyond all, to time." MKR

Bob Brounley - Fingerstlye Guitarist

I must acknowledge my reconnection to the area is through dear friends, Lindy and Bob. If you're lucky you might find Bob playing his amazing music on a weekend in Micanopy (Bob's on ReverbNation.com). 
They live on a horse farm just outside of McIntosh and have given me more insight to the area than I could have discovered on my own. They are among the most wonderful people a person could hope to know. They even introduced me to the Mayor of McIntosh.  Horse Farms and dinners with the Mayor?  Sounds like I've been hobnobbing! Well, a girls got to do what a girls got to do.

Search Amazon.com for marjorie rawlings books
Historic Micanopy, Florida, 1821

La Florida

A true trip through historic Florida would not be complete without its earliest beginning and if I had only one opportunity to show you the beauty of Florida it might just be this place.  Of the hundreds of beautiful places in Florida this place is the cherry and it is rich in history.  But it might not be where you think.  I'm not in St. Augustine, not yet, but I'm close.
Guana River State Park is located along A1A just north of St. Augustine.  Few places exemplify Florida's beauty the way this place does. It is historical preservation the way nature intended it and it is as close to pristine as I've seen. For those of you who are history buffs a 1592 account by a Spanish historian has led present day historians to believe that Guana River was the site of Ponce de Leon's first landing in Florida but the precise location is still unknown.
According to the state of Florida within its (the GTMNER) 73,352 acres are beaches, sand dunes, salt marshes, mangroves, tidal wetlands, tidal creeks, oyster bars, estuarine lagoons, maritime hardwood hammock, freshwater depression marshes, pond pine flatwoods and shell mound forests. It is also an important calving ground for the endangered North Atlantic Right Whale. The Guana River State Park which is part of the GTMNER (Guana Tolomato Matanzas National Estuarine Research Reserve) is where I landed, me and Ponce de Leon. For me, what's most interesting about this place is its awe inspiring beauty. I think Ponce de Leon was inspired by its beauty as well since he named it La Florida or place of flowers.  It can provoke quiet reflection through a nature hike or kayak trip but it can also inspire the minds of a whole hoard of fourth graders at its research facility or one single eleven year old transforming the idea of snow angels into sea angels on its beach. You'll know when you see it that this is how it was meant to be.  You may even feel as though you've just discovered La Florida!

Looking toward the park from the beach dunes.

Above the dunes.

Road Trip Recap

My little tour through Florida ended on a cold morning, a 24 degree morning when the grass crunched under my feet. The morning this horseshoe crab seemed more like the stuff of the frozen seafood isle than my parent's Gulf side backyard. Mmmm, horseshoe crab over whole wheat linguini - very Lean Cuisine. I think I'll pass.

Despite the drop in temperature the trip was very rewarding. I saw and did so many interesting things but alas there's only so much blog speak you'll listen to in one post before you stop scrolling.  I thought however, I might just give you a little bit more to sum it all up.
As you probably noticed I have avoided the neon tourist icons of Florida again. There's so much written about the tourist hot spots throughout the state. Although I can give you good information on them as well, right now I preferred to give you something different. We will eventually get to Disney, South Beach, etc. but I think it is important to point out parts of Florida that are still old Florida. Areas that have a grasp on their history and by virtue of embracing it they have managed not to dry up and blow away. Some would say they aren't very interesting but for those who pursue a different kind of adventure small towns have a lot to offer. In particular something the bustling tourists meccas usually lack – they have authenticity. It is in these places that you'll find the true Florida. I haven't made it to all of them yet, but I hope I can give you enough of a glimpse to intrigue you.
In the Florida Panhandle there is an area known as the Forgotten Coast. It is were my parents moved to escape the crowds of SE Florida. There you'll find a string of tiny fishing towns each with a couple shops, a restaurant and if you're lucky a hotel. Some have been around since the 1800's and are among the places you should not miss. These are places where you can pull up to an oyster house and buy a bushel of the freshest oysters you'll ever eat or a few pounds of the freshest shrimp. There is nothing like getting together with friends and throwing some oysters right on the grill. When they're done you can eat them straight out of the shell. If you've never had a fresh steamed oyster you are definitely missing out! I actually prefer them steamed. But there are a multitude of ways to fix oysters from raw to Rockefeller to stew. Check out the Oysters Rockefeller segment on TravelVision on YouTube.  My mother's recipe for Oyster Stew has been a family favorite for decades and it's one of the simplest meals I've ever made.  If you prefer not to have to shuck or fix them there are a dozen or restaurants happy to accommodate you along the coast. One of the best is Boss Oyster on the river in Apalachicola. There you can have your oysters fixed many different ways.  The Oyster St. Jacob and the Oyster Monterey are two of my favorites. 

Apalachicola is a great little town to start exploring and is home to The Owl Restaurant (see previous post), The Gibson Inn (pictured above - established in 1907 and on the Nat'l Registry of Historic Places) and The Oasis Bar (pictured at top). It sits at the mouth of the Apalachicola River and was once a bustling seaport. It is now a simple fishing town and a wonderful place to visit. There's lots to see in the area including the beautiful beaches on nearby St. George Island. And should you choose to head east from there don't miss out on Carrabelle, Panacea and St. Marks.  St. Marks is home to the St. Marks Nat'l Wildlife Refuge where you can spend the day bird watching, boating and fishing. Boating in these parts abounds and not getting out on the Gulf or up one of the rivers would be a crime. 

  St. Marks is also where you'll find the Riverside Cafe a rustic fun place on the water with good food and good music. It's where the locals hang.  So in your plans to travel to Florida don't forget all there is to see and do on this part of Florida's vast coastline.